Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park (NPS #322 Two Lane Touring) /  by Dave Hileman

I was disappointed with my photography at this park. I got there early one day and conditions were great. Photographed the turtle, super, shot the “forbidden sign, fine and then I got distracted by several birds. They were just a bit too far for my lens to get the sharpness and the size I needed but I knew that they were new birds and so I just kept shooting walking down the beach past great scenery and taking photos of these birds. A lot of photos. t thought I would come back here it was a quick trip from our rental and we did late one evening. Yet, I missed a lot and ended with a few good shots and lots of barely visible birds. Lots.

Kaloko-Honokōhau was a village unlike the last two posted parks that were associated with the kings. These were fisherman, farmers, canoe makers, families, & warriors. They lived in a village along the shore that had a bit of fresh water and that sustained them here. Archeological work is ongoing at several sites. One of the very interesting parts of the park were the fish ponds they built. Both in the shallows and in two bays. Here they captured and carefully managed lots of fish for their main diet. Two smaller ones are in the sunset photo and the massive bay one is contained by a huge lava rock dam.

This shows the village main cove and barely visible on the right is the canoe hut.

A large green turtle. I was so focused on a bird I almost stepped on him. I was the only one on the beach at that point of the morning.

Kapu was a whole system of laws that governed life in Hawaii. Here it just means do not climb on the ancient wall.

This massive dam enclosed the largest fish pond.

Gorgeous soft breeze night. You can see two of the smaller fish ponds.


Hulu /  by Dave Hileman

The Hulu dance is an interpretation of an event or an emotion but usually they are connected. We watched a performance on our first night in Waikiki near the Duke statue. There were three musicians and two dancers and we were told how each dance explained or enhanced the telling of the event. This woman just finished a dance with the setting sun adding a glow to her.

Mustang Cindy (apologies to Wilson Pickett) /  by Dave Hileman

Mustang Cindy, think you better slow your mustang down

Mustang Cindy, think you better slow your mustang down

You been running all over Maui now

Oh! I guess I'll have to hang the lei back on your neck

All you want to do is ride around Cindy, ride, Cindy, ride

We upgraded the Kia rental car in Maui for a reasonable price and enjoyed the car especially on the road to Hana and the early morning trek up Haleakala for sunrise. It was also pleasant each evening to enjoy the tropical sounds and smells. Good decision.

Lava Landscape /  by Dave Hileman

This was a hot hike, no shade at all and the black lava radiated heat from the sun even though we were on the trail by 10:15. It is an eerie kind of hike with scrubby vegetation - this was a lava flow in 1996, I believe. Yet the ocean is visible along most of the trail. Part of Volcanoes National Park.

We Try Harder /  by Dave Hileman

We try harder was the mid 60’s slogan of the number two car rental company. I think the folks that rent the surf boards motto might be “We’re Here.” No ties, no coats, no nametags, and likely no shoes in this laid back space. Pretty clear what the product is in the relaxed, sun washed beach front rentals. However they are convienient for folks and they seemed to be busy most of the time. There were stands like this up and down the beach on Waikiki.

Sea Arch /  by Dave Hileman

This sea arch is on the ocean side of Volcanoes National Park. The trail is at the end of the 19 mile drive on the east rim drive past the VC for the park. We arrived very early in the day to do three hikes before it got too hot and this was the goal of the first one. We were told more than half the arch collapsed in a recent storm and this one may not last much longer.

Pu'ukohola Heiau National Historic Site (NP #321 Two Lane Touring) /  by Dave Hileman

This is a most intriguing site and one of our favorites in the Hawaiian islands. It seems King Kamehameha’s ambition was to unite all the Hawaiian islands. At the time he was the ruler of 1/3 of the Big Island, or Hawaii. As part of his plan, he built a temple. The temple is made of a huge stone base, about 30 feet high, 100 wide and more than 220 feet long that would support many smaller, light, thatched roofed structures. The whole base is made with no mortar. He added a difficulty by demanding that all the stones were smooth and the only place under his control where there were sufficient smooth stones was 20 miles away across a mountain over 7000 feet tall on the opposite coast. So he lined up thousands of warriors shoulder to shoulder and they passed stones hand to hand for a year. If you dropped one it was carried back to the starting point. A priest on site determined where each stone was placed. This is revered geography in Hawaiian culture and marks the beginning of the Kingdom of Hawaii.

Offerings were placed here.

The stone base in the foreground was a fort where cannon were placed.

One of four spots in Hawaii where the Kingdom of Hawaii’s flag can be officially flown.

Duke Kahanamoku /  by Dave Hileman

This is the famous Duke statue on the beach at Waikiki. It is to the man who, among many accomplishments, introduced the world to surfing. He was an Olympic Gold Medal winner multiple times, he saved several fishermen using his surf board - now standard equipment in lifeguard stations and much more. See https://www.discover-hawaii.com/oahu/articles/duke-kahanamoku-the-man-behind-the-statue-on-waikiki_490/

The statue is often thronged with people and draped with leis. I tried to capture it with a surfer in the frame as well as on the water.

Wild /  by Dave Hileman

Who knew that wild goats were an issue in Hawaii, or at least they are on the Big Island. We saw quite a few in our five days here. This was the first group, a family of four working their way down the old lava flow toward the sea. Mom watched the “kids.” Dad watched us. There are so many in this area near HOnaunau Park that they have built a fence to keep them out of some parts and gave away - no idea to whom or how, sorry I should not butt in like that:) - 400 goats last spring. The ranger said that they estimate about 300 births since then, so not much headway in goat control.

Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park (NP #320 Two Lane Touring) /  by Dave Hileman

The visit to this park was fascinating. It was the site of the ruling family of the island of Hawaii (or a portion of it) for generations. The structure surrounded by tiki poles and a fence was the burial site of kings, at least 23 were buried here dating from about 1450 to 1818. The lava rock wall beside it was the base for a massive temple and the long wall, about a mile more, enclosed a “city of refuge” where people who broke a Kapu or a warrior defeated in battle could flee here and be absolved by a priest of their death sentence. Of course they had to make it here pursued by those who did not want them set free. There were royal fish ponds, a boat house and many more unrestored sites on the property. The VC had an excellent movie about one man’s journey to freedom. The grounds and the cove were so pretty and we just loved being here. We also hiked about a one mile trail to a cliff overlook. We passed other foundations, saw several Konane carved into the lava https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kōnane) and our first wild goats.

This is Kōnane, similar to the Japanese game of Go. The board could be any size with lava and coral pieces. These were high stakes games with much being bet on individual moves.

A small portion of the huge rock wall, 10 feet tall, 15 feet deep and no cement. Enclosed the city of refuge.

The boat house for repair or building a new canoe.

World War II, Valor in the Pacific, Pearl Harbor Unit (NP #319 Two Lane Touring) /  by Dave Hileman

This was a long anticipated visit. Pearl Harbor did not disappoint even with high expectations. We visited the area the day after arrival in Oahu. We took a city bus from our hotel to the National Park. While it took an hour, it was only 1.25 each way and the tours from the hotel started at $45 each, very frugal:). Plus we could stay as long as we wished. You must make a reservation for the boat to the Arizona Memorial and we were scheduled for 1:00 so we arrived on site about 10:30. We had to check our backpacks as no bags are permitted on the site.

First we toured the submarine Bowfin. (I wrote about that boat on September 17th.) We also enjoyed the submarine museum and the memorial to all the US subs lost at sea. Moving spot. There are a few buildings associated with the VC here, including one museum for the War in the Pacific and one on the attack on the military in Oahu including Pearl Harbor. They were well presented. Cindy and I were both surprised by the number of military units attacked before the primary attack on the ships. There were also some great stories about the civilians associated with the bases. We then moved to a third building where we were given some instructions on protocol for the ride to and while on the Arizona Memorial. This portion was run by the Navy and the NPS. Because of the restrictions photos were difficult to take of the whole memorial. You were not permitted to take them from the boat, the dock or the ramp, only on the memorial itself. I got one brief shot of the side of the structure and the flag at half mast with the permission of the ranger on the ramp. One.

The actual memorial is simple with a mostly open top and sides and a list of the service men, nearly 1200, who died on the Arizona and are interred here. The marble wall of names took up one end of the mmemorial. There are a couple plaques and a small model of the harbor. The bulk of the ship is just visible below the surface with a few small portions out of the water. One spot showed the oil still leaking out of the ship, slowly, now doing so for 81 years. Made it seem somehow more real. You are permitted on the memorial for about 25 minutes and talking is only allowed at a whisper and that is enforced by the ranger on site. It does give a dose of reality to what occurred here, the lost lives and the momentous events that ensued from 12/07/1941.

We were not allowed on Ford Island because we did not get tickets to the USS Missouri or the Aviation Museum. At the present time that is the only way onto the island even though there is a walk and some officers quarters usually open they were not the day we visited.

The forward gun turret, the flag at permeant half mast, the berth platform and the side of the Memorial.

The submarine memorial. There were a couple dozen of these stones each with a list of the men lost and a recap the boat’s service. You can see the Arizona Memorial and the USS Missouri in the distance.

The massive gun turret.

A small portion of the wall of names.

Oil seepage.

The flag is visible in one of the open roof panels.

Birds /  by Dave Hileman

These are two Saffron Finches. They are among the 22 birds I saw that are new to me on this trip. Since Hawaii is not North America they cannot be added to my list of NA birds however, I have now 29 birds in my new Oceania list. I really missed my long lens on this trip for taking photos of birds and I missed a lot of those opportunities. Just did not have the room in the case for it, but if there is a next time!

Surf Riders /  by Dave Hileman

As I type this in the Seattle Airport I have been up for 27 hours. My text will likely be even more jumbled than usual. However, getting home - in the midst of a hurricane - at 6 this evening will add another 6 or 7 hours to the total and clearly syntext will be completely gone, so posting for October 1 this morning.

We enjoyed watching the surfers off of North Beach in Maui. The best waves are here and most of the serious surfers seem to be as well. The photos were tough. I was on a high cliff a long way from the action and from where they would catch a wave and then a bit more toward shore the light changed dramatically. And I did not have my trusty 100-400 lens. So with all that complaining out of the way, two of the many surfers from our last day in Hawaii.

Leaving Hawaii /  by Dave Hileman

Two weeks really sped by. We are exhausted - no restful vacation for us, just up in the early morning hours, go until dark - or occasionally well after and repeat the process. But “What Fun.” (Miranda fans only) I will be processing many of the 4000 photos I took, doing posts on the six National Parks, taking about the food, the people, the history and culture and the lovely islands for a few weeks so stay tuned. Also I will recap the sad true tale of a Moose who fell in with a rogue band of Hula Girls on vespas and, well, it is a short trip to the depths of a jail cell.

The close of a fabulous time in Hawaii sailing on the horizon into the setting sun. Except we flew:)

Ginger! /  by Dave Hileman

I have a very poor sense of smell. Lots of things just have a faint or even non-existant odor and that lack of smell is related to how much you enjoy lots of foods. It has been speculated by people that choose to speculate on such things, that my dislike of cheese is related to the fact it has little aroma to me. They jump right past the awful taste:} Anyway, one spice I have always liked is ginger. In nearly any form: candy, mints, cookies, cakes, drinks, Thai food and more. A couple of days ago we were hiking a trail in the rain forest and came across a large grove or bunch or whatever, of wild ginger. It was a delightful smell and I began to appreciate why people’s memories of certain smells are so evocative. It was just brilliant. I would love to live in a grove of ginger. Plus it has a gorgeous flower.

Waimoku Falls /  by Dave Hileman

The Pipiwai Trail in Haleakala National Park is past Hana on the famous “Road to.” It is the coastal portion of the more famous volcano crater that is 10,000+ feet above you as you hike this area. We left a little late in the day so it was a bit dark in the forest on our return but nothing too difficult. We met a nice couple from NC - he is a very good photographer (RRNphotograhy.com) and they own an Oliver Trailer! So the walk back with them included interesting conversations about travel and trailers and photos. The falls were spectacular reaching a height of more than 400 feet. Impressive indeed. We were not permitted to go to the pool at the base so had to be content with almost. I loved the wild orchids growing along the trail close to the falls. And the stately grove of light colored trees to the left of the falls were also very neat. Great hike of about 2.3 miles each way with an elevation gain of 800+ feet.