Guess! /  by Dave Hileman

We parked the RV on the late side at a state park just north of Tucson as the sunlight was fading fast. While I was leveling the trailer I looked up and there was the moon just coming over the mountain across from us. Beautiful.

Mesilla /  by Dave Hileman

This is an old town and once the seat of the Mexican government for this territory. It is also where the ceremony for the transfer of land following the Gadson Purchase was held. This restaurant is a quite famous and a regional draw - unfortunately we were unable to eat here on this day. The town is cool. We saw where Billy the Kid was tried and convicted of murder - he later escaped. He was gunned down by the lawman who brought him to trial in Mesilla. Wyatt Earp’s brother had a saloon here. The bandstand was built for the transfer ceremony and still holds the center of the square. Across from it is the smallest Basilica in the US. Lots of shops, good ice cream, photographic arts, specialty foods and excellent pecans. They grow lots of pecans here.

Fort Leaton a Texas State Historic Site /  by Dave Hileman

While it is called a fort and it is defensible it was really a trading post and an important stop on the trail between San Antonio and Chihuahua, Mexico. Here travelers could stay, get repairs done, pick up new animals, store goods, get news and food. The trading post was a luxurious home with storage, stables, guest rooms and lots of animals to refresh the ones coming along the trail. The typical freight wagon used 8 or 10 oxen.

20 foot high freight wagon pulled by 8 to 10 oxen

On the Echo Canyon Trail at Chiricahua National Monument /  by Dave Hileman

The rangers offer a shuttle service to the top of the mountain where you have a few choices of hikes back to the VC (and then on to the campground). We chose Echo Canyon a 4.2 mile hike that had minimal up and lots of down. Plus it was gorgeous. You start in the peak rocks, descend through more amazing rocks on every side and through four distinct zones. This was a gem.

The Grottos

This is called “wall street”

Camping Recap week 12 /  by Dave Hileman

Leaving Chiricahua National Monument campground we drove to Tucson and stayed the night at Catalina State Park in loop A, site 31, a nice pull through with great views of the mountains. The park had some nice trails. Each site had water and electric and they had a well built dump station. Good stay.

We spent the next night at a Harvest Host called Box 8 Ranch at Superior, AZ. Not the best experience. Not too level and just a bare minimum of instruction on where to park. We never saw our host.

On to Homolovi State Park near Winslow (“standing on the corner) Arizona. We had site 4, paved back-in site with electric and water. The sites were very well spaced. Good stop for two nights.

Moving north we stayed one night at Canyon de Chelly, AZ on Navajo tribal land. FCFS but no issues and lots of spaces. We only spent one night at site #39 for $20 with no services but you could add water from several faucets. Much of the canyon was not accessible so we moved across the Navajo land to the Navajo National Monument.

Great camping here on National Park property. No services but it was free, paved, beautiful and gorgeous sky. We spent two days here and used one of them to drive to Monument Valley and took a super jeep tour from 4 to 7:30. Stunning land.

We were then off to Utah. Kanab, a Harvest Host, Zion and then Bryce.

Free spaces at Navajo National Monument.

Catalina State Park near Tucson and lots of nearby everything.

“I’m So Lonesome Tonight…” Canyon de Chelly

Bird Saturday! /  by Dave Hileman

Black-chinned Sparrow

Lessor Goldfinch

Vermillion Flycatcher

Says Phobe

You’re not a bird, shoo, scat, get over to your own site. And quit staring at people - it’s not polite.

THREE Restaurant Reviews /  by Dave Hileman

By Cadillac Moose, PhD, #32858450

Yes, I’m back. I know you missed me but I had important business to do in the film industry. You know I starred in a feature film a couple of years ago, right? Well now I have set my sights on replacing the inadequate Paul Hollywood on the Great British Baking Show. I am perfect for this gig and I was off to do another screen test. Somehow my limo transport back to the White Pill had a glitch and I missed them at several stops. Not sure how they survived. (Ed Note: he stowed away in a light case with NatGeo film crew and when they discovered him in St. Louis they sent him FedEx. Unfortunately FedEx finally found us in Arizona. So he is back and I am out $40 for his delivery.)

I am slightly behind now on my reviews - let’s catch up a couple. First the unique breakfast at The Living Harvest Bakery, Mimbres, NM.

This is a special place in an old church. Breakfast is free. And it is good. They also sell coffee by the pound, bread, granola and accept donations for the food if you wish. Such a cool idea. But the best part (beside free) they had great people working there. Excellent way to state the trip to Gila Cliff Dwelling.

Rating by Cadillac, Free equals Five Antlers every time.

Chocolate Pinon was an excellent choice

One of the delightful staff, making cookies.

Second. TranquilBuzz Coffee shop in Silver City, They had a decent latte and I was famished for a latte so my judgement may be impaired. But this place was a bit odd. I imagine if you knew the folks etc, but it was hard to figure out even where to order. Plus there was singing. The whole town of Silver City is like a time warp to the 1960’s and 70’s. People on the street playing hand drums, art galleries that would have fit that old culture perfectly. Just a surreal experience.

Cadillac rating: 3 Antlers

Third. Chocolate Lady ice cream in Mesilla was a welcome respite from the ice cream desert we were in. It was a tiny shop with a limited selection in prepackaged servings but it was pretty good. Chocolate tasted a bit on the pudding side. Not a bad thing.

Cadillac rating - 3.5 Antlers.




National Park Unit #332 - Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument /  by Dave Hileman

The drive to Gila is memorable and dramatic. There are two routes we took the longer one to get to the monument through the Mimbres River Valley. This way included a stop in a small town for breakfast. It was a buffet in an old church and it was free, served five days a week, Tuesday to Saturday. The full story will be in the Moose’s review also posting today. The trip back was though Silver City and even more of a wild road.

The Mimbres were an ancient tribal people but the name was given to them from an early Spanish governor. They occupied the region from possibly as early as 700 but were prominent 900 to 1300. The Mimbres people are known for their stunning pottery designs, more on that in a bit.

The Gila Cliff Dwellings are in the midst of the massive Gila Wilderness Area, remote and almost roadless. To reach the GCD you drive 45 miles north of Silver City, our route intersected that road 26 miles from the destination. It went up and over two high mountains on winding, often narrow, but paved roads and took just over an hour. The end of the road is the Visitor Center where we stopped and got orientation. Then a two mile road to the start of the loop trail to the dwellings. You get instructions at the trail head from another ranger, the usual stuff but one caution was striking, in the “do not touch, sit” etc, he mentions the walls are 80% original. Wow. You start across the Mimbres river, this is very near where Geronimo was born. Then a gentle ascent in a small canyon with the steep walls towering over you. Up 180 steps ( I read the brochure) to the base of the dwellings. Here is where this monument becomes so unique, you are permitted up into the actual site, there are ladders and a well marked path but you simply are where they lived. Extraordinary.

About 30 to 60 people lived here for a generation from circa 1260 to 1300. Like most sites here there is no known reason for the abandonment. The Mimbres people gradually assimilated into the Apaches and their culture is gone with the exception of the pottery. This is an outstanding park and an adventure to and from as well as while you are here.

Coatimundi /  by Dave Hileman

Hiking along a dry river bed in the Chiricahua National Monument in Southeast Arizona Cindy spied a Coatimundi. I got one photo as he peered at us from behind a tree and a couple more as he scampered away. I had never seen one before. Native to South and Central American they have edged into parts of NM & Az mountains. They are interesting creatures and are named for their large noses. Note the super long tail they use for balance as they spend a lot of time in trees. The males are loners the female and their young travel in a group. The US ones are specifically White Nosed Coatimundi. You can read a bit more at https://www.treehugger.com/coatimundi-facts-5089327

National Park Unit #331 - Chamizal National Memorial /  by Dave Hileman

Chamizal celebrates the ending in the 1960’s of a dispute with Mexico that began when Abraham Lincoln was president. The Rio Grande River was set as the boundary but in El Paso the river changed course leaving a large island of disputed land. It was solved under Kennedy (Jackie actually did the speech) and each country received some land and the Rio was channeled into a permanent river bed. A park was established to celebrate both cultures, hence the site. It was a striking building and the coolest thing was the room where the typical local NP film is shown was set up like a 1960’s living room and the movie was in an old console TV. We also met Saul, the ranger who proposed the now popular program of free entry to all National Parks for all fourth grade students and their families.

Ranger Saul

Lots of colorful murals

Courtyard at the VC

Windswept /  by Dave Hileman

There is a beauty in the high desert with the wind shifting the grasses like waves at sea, the colors trading their daytime browns and grays for brilliant hues of orange and gold and purple. It is mesmerizing to stand in the desert wind and see the enchantment unfold.

Aw, Cute /  by Dave Hileman

This is a Cliff Chipmunk. I photographed him at the campsite at Chiricahua National Monument. Not sure what it was at first because of the large fluffy tail, i sadly misnamed it a squirrel because there are some unique ones in the area. However the ranger and I delved into a book or two and discovered that it was a neat chipmunk. You never know what you will see out your door when your door is in lots of places.

City of Rocks State Park /  by Dave Hileman

City of Rocks is a New Mexico State Park in the southern portion of the state 35 miles north of Deming. We camped here to enable the visit to Gila Cliff Dwellings but it is unique as well. There are, we were told, six places in the world where rocks appear like this. Here they are placed in close proximity and scattered over  a half mile of desert. Many of them more than 40 feet tall you can see quickly why people saw this like a city and it is easy to get lost in the maze too. We enjoyed a walk among the rocks, though no bagel shops no coffee shops and no ice cream, not much of a city.

Smith's Spring /  by Dave Hileman

Hiking in the high desert into the mountain canyon I was surprised to find how lush Smith’s Spring was, even a small waterfall. The water was clear and cold and filled several small pools. The trees were large and the cacti were less prominent. There were more flowers and the madrone tress were in bloom. A wonderful respite from the relentless sun and heat of the dessert.