This visit did not start off well. We arrived at Hubble Trading Post about 12:15. There was a lot of red dust swirling about and the road was bumpy. That is ok, it is the west. Some of the parking lot is closed off to complete work on a new roof for the barn. Understandable so I had to improvise parking with the trailer. No problem. We first went to the VC and the sign said open. The locked door suggested otherwise. No issue we will go first to the authentic trading post from the late 1800’s. It was a cool building but one look at the prices and we knew they were not “trading” with us. Very small Navajo rugs started at $950. 6” high wooden dolls, single dimension but hand painted started at $89. So it did not take too long to finish the trading post. It was still a great experience to see this authentic building and there were interesting artifacts all about.
So back to the VC, nope not yet open. Back to the TP, “Is the VC open?” The reply was “I guess he is at lunch.” Well, ok, we can wait. Meanwhile I spot a Great Horned Owl in a tree on a nest. Things are looking up. literally. The ranger arrives and we go into the small museum. After a few questions that we ask and a few Ranger Burbank asked us, he said “This is the best National Park and I will show you why.” He told us to wait on the porch of the house that belonged to Mr. Hubble. We did. He arrived with a couple other folks and it was clear we were going in for a tour. Excited about that.
The house was unique, long center hall for lots of family & guest activity and 6 or 8 bedrooms off the hall each with a separate door. A small courtyard off the back of the hall led to the school room, storage and the dinning room and kitchen. The dinning room furniture was hand carved in three years and over 110 years ago it cost $10,000. We saw the chair Teddy Roosevelt sat in.
It was the art that was astonishing. In the hall was the only painting of Geronimo that he ever sat for and one I have seen in many history books. There it was. Wow. There were scores of red Conte Crayon on paper, portraits on the walls, like 120 or more. They were called “Red Heads” about 10 x 14, framed and of Indians. They were all done in person by one artist, Elbridge Ayer Burbank. On the wall were the famous, like Sitting Bull, and the not well known, ordinary men and women from 112 different tribes. A truly unique, irreplaceable collection and a window into a long gone era.
Then the connection. Alvis Burbank took us on the tour, Elbridge Ayer Burbank did the portraits.
Indeed, it is a special park, even more special for the people fortunate to be on a tour with Ranger Burbank and his deep, passionate connection to his Navajo culture and his pride of this place. We were enriched by the experience.
Geronimo
Part of the interior of Hubble TP
About 1/2 of the long center hallway, Hubble house
Note all the “red head” portraits. They covered nearly every wall.